Day 259 - 16th of May

10:46pm　セミナーハウス

天気：晴れ

Feeling very tired now; today was fun, but draining. At least it was a nice, sunny day; maybe a little too warm. I was so worried we weren’t going to make it the concert today, but everything turned out fine, eventually… I got up at 9 (a little late), and hurriedly readied myself for the day. I let Maarika know I’d meet her at seminar house 1 at 10, so went over there and waited; and waited. I waited until about 10 past, and then decided to just go; I was already keeping Carly waiting. I went to the bus stop, and found that the bus wouldn’t be coming for the next 10 minutes. I got so anxious just standing there that I walked to the next stop, and still had to wait. I didn’t end up getting down to the station until about a quarter to 11; Carly was still waiting patiently bless her. So now all we had to do was get to Nipponbashi; easy enough right? Well, stupid me lead us to the wrong station; we talked with Maureen and Tori, who were going to Eigamura, for a little while. It wasn’t until we got on the train and started moving did I realise we were going in the wrong direction; towards Kyoto. So, we had to get off at Kuzuha, and wait for the next express to take us back the other way; the waiting nearly killed me. We got on the train at about 10 past 11 and, knowing the concert started at 12, I was freaking out.

We took the limited express to Kitahama, and then rushed over to the Sakai-suji subway line. There was finally a bit of luck when we managed to get to the platform just as the train was coming in. We had less than 10 minutes left, but thankfully Nipponbashi was only three stations down. As soon as we got off the train we rushed toward exit 7, emerging into the sunlight to find that the theatre ~ the 国立文楽劇場 (kokuritsu bunraku gekijou – National Japanese Puppet Theatre ~ was just up the road; we had made it just in time. We were soon seated in a beautiful theatre, delicate lanterns lining the walls, and huge curtain in front of us, adorned with pine trees and water. We had come in just after the MC had started talking, so didn’t miss any of the music. The next 3 hours (yes, it was a lot longer than I had expected), were filled with some of the most beautiful music I had ever heard; I was blown away. The orchestra (if that is the right term for it) played 8 pieces, splitting up into various groups for each. It took me a while, but during the first piece I finally noticed Sensei in a sky blue kimono playing the shamisen; she looked so calm and confident. In fact, almost everyone looked to be at absolute peace, and I was transfixed watching each section move in almost perfect unison; the graceful and precise movements reflected the magnificence of the music.

Most of the pieces included both shamisen and koto sections, as well as a solo shakuhachi. One included the 琵琶 (biwa – Japanese lute), and a few included the 17-stringed koto; it’s deep notes resounding. If I had a chance to play koto again, I would love to give the 17-string a go; I’ve always had a thing for bass instruments. They presented a wonderful balance of traditional and contemporary pieces, which I was very pleased about; it really showed off the versatility of the instruments. I actually found myself drawn more towards the contemporary pieces. Of course, the traditional pieces were all amazing, stepped in the aesthetics of Japan, but the contemporary pieces really touched my soul. One piece in particular, called 硝子の星座 (garasu no seiza – “Constellation of glass”) sent shivers down my spine; I was completely swept up in it. I desperately want to hear it again now, as it was just breathtaking; maybe I’ll be able to find it somewhere one day. The last piece played almost had a Middle Eastern flair to it, which again showed off the diverse range of music these instruments can perform; it certainly helps when they can all be tuned to whatever you want. I was thoroughly impressed, and hope I get the opportunity to see something of such a standard again one day.

Upon exiting, we bumped into Maarika; I was glad she had made it. She never got my message, so actually came over to Seminar House 2 to find me; I had already left by that time. Oh well, it all worked out. We found Sensei in the lobby, and congratulated her when she came rushing over to thank us. Then, feeling very hungry, we went in search of a convenience store, and soon found a Family Mart; I got an onigiri and a yummy strawberry donut thing. We made our way back to Makino, this time not in a rush, and then walked home from there; stopping at Sanko on the way; I got some cheap bananas. I was so surprised to find that it was already 5 by the time we were home; the whole day had gone. Still, I managed to get about 4 hours study in; Carly helped by quizzing me on kanji and vocabulary. We had a break for dinner in between, and sat in the lounge reading in the newspaper that they had found that modern man’s genome contains traces of Neanderthal DNA; it was quite fascinating. After that, more study and then donuts, and then Carly left. I’d better get some sleep now. My exam is at 10, but I want to try to get up early to study a bit more. I’m really glad I got to go out today, but it has put a bit of a strain on things…

Day 189 - 7th of March

6:46pm　快速
天気：雨天
I’m on the rapid express back to Amagasaki; alone. Today was a lot of fun, even though the weather’s been poor. I’m feeling pretty tired now and just want to get back, eat, and then get some sleep… We didn’t get back from karaoke until after 3 this morning; it was totally worth it though! I slept until 9:30 and the readied myself for the day. I decided to wear my orange pants, which turned out to be a bad idea, and not because they attract too much attention. When I bought the pants, there was already a small tear in the left leg, but unfortunately when I bend down, it sits over my knee, and so you can imagine; there’s a huge rip in it now. The pants are still getting plenty of attention, but now it’s the wrong kind; I’m a little embarrassed.

6:55pm　快速
I decided to just stay on the same train since it’s going all the way through to Kyobashi. So yeah, I’m not happy about the pants at all. I’ll have to get Nanny to fix them when I get back; that could be fun… I rode to Makino, and parked my bike in the gutter; hopefully it’s okay still. Then I took the local to Hirakatashi, where I met up with Erin, and we proceeded to take the rapid express to Kyobashi. I knew we could get directly to Takarazuka from Kyobashi (having seen the line when we went to Kobe) so we went for that. Erin and I had decided to go earlier, apart from the rest of the class, so we could check out the area a bit, and see the museum beforehand; the show didn’t start till 3. There are five troupes that make up Takarazuka, each with their own unique style: 花 (hana – flower), 月 (tsuki – moon), 雪 (yuki – snow), 星 (hoshi- star), and the newest troupe, 宙 (sora – cosmos). We would be seeing the snow troupe performing today, with ソルフェリーノの夜明け (Soruferino no yoake – The Dawn at Solferino), as the musical, and カルネヴァーレ睡夢 (karunevaru suimu – Carnevale: A Sleeping Dream), as the revue.

After changing over at Amagasaki, we were on our way to Takarazuka, and made it there before 1. We crossed over from the JR station to the Hankyu Station (the two opposing each other), and had a look around the department store, before finding something to eat; Ramen! We also noticed some of the students in uniform and actors from the Revue (clearly Otokoyaku from there slicked back, short-cropped hair), and contained ourselves not to bother them; there was heaps of merchandise and posters around the department store. After lunch, we made our way over to some buildings, clearly part of the Revue complex (beautiful architecture), and spent time browsing the shops. We walked past an English pub, went into one of the Revue gift shops (everything was so expensive), and even found a small gallery. The artwork was all animal inspired, and the guy there let us take photos, which I found very surprising; maybe because we’re foreigners? After walking through some gardens in the rain, we found our way into the 大劇場 (Daigekijo – Grand Theatre), stumbling upon the museum. Since we received a discount card from the professor when we got the tickets, we thought why not give it a look. I was once again surprised when they said we could take pictures; it certainly made it worthwhile. It wasn’t too big, but there were any costumes, poster, and photos displayed, and we even got some ink stamps; they had a special sheet to put them on…

7:25pm　特急
Now I’m on the limited express back to Hirakatashi, to change over for Makino… Coming out of the museum, we soon spotted to class (very good timing indeed), and after we signed off with Hester, we entered the main hall; it was very grand indeed. After a few more photos (including that of a grand piano that played itself – creepy), we went to get seated; up to lots of escalators to the second level. We were in what the American’s liked to refer to as the nose bleed seats, and indeed we were very high up, though not right up the back. The building’s interior, like its exterior, was really very beautiful, and the stage was no exception. It was immense; by far the largest I’ve ever been in. And then the show! Wow, I was so impressed; never have I seen anything like it before. In some respects, it was more amazing than Beauty and the Beast. The props, costumes, and even the stage itself were spectacular. There was a also a live orchestra, set up in the pit in front of the stage, which was surrounded by a walkway that the actors would frequently use. And although we were quite far back, the view was still good, and seeing all the action was no problem. Lots of people had binoculars, allowing them to see the intricate details of the costumes and make up.

7:39pm
I’m on the sub-express back to Makino; almost home… All the acting was amazing, but I was especially impressed by the Otokoyaku (male role-players), who really could have past as men; well, apart from their sometimes overtly sparkly costumes. But in singing, speaking, and demeanour, they were very masculine and powerful. The Dawn at Solferino was set in 1859, and focused on the war between Italy and Austria, and the creation of the Red Cross. It was very moving; though I’m sure I would have appreciated it more if I could have understood it all. It lasted for about an hour and a half, and then we had a 30 minute intermission. In the time, we all gathered at the grand staircase, and Hester got a picture of us; well several actually, and with several different lenses. Sitting back down again, we were treated to Carnevale, set in Venice, and very, very colourful. It was in complete contrast to Solferino, having no real plot, but instead an amazing array of singing and dance routines. The costumes just kept on getting bigger, more elaborate, and more sparkly, and the stage floor not only rotated, but also had platforms that the actors could ascend from below the stage on. The huge props moved around so fluidly before our eyes, and the lighting was magical…

After it was all over, just on 6 o’clock, Erin and I went to the gift shop (which incidentally is called “Qautre Reves” which means “Four Dreams” in French ~ this kind of doesn’t work anymore since there are now five troupes; I’m surprise they haven’t changed it). Erin was in a bit of a rush since she was going on to a party in Osaka, so I let her go, and continued to browse for a while. I was very excited when I happened upon the piano sheet music for some of their performances. I decided to go out on a limb and buy a book; the piano and vocals for the musical titled “Elizabeth”. I discovered later that this is the most successful German-language musical of all time, and was performed by the snow troupe; which made the purchase all the more meaningful since I’d just seen them. I exited the shop, and sat down on the floor to sort out all the paper I’d collected and accidently ripped my pants even further…

Getting back to Makino, I found my bike very wet, but otherwise okay. Wiping off the seat, I made my way home; luckily it wasn’t raining at that point. As soon as I got back, I went to have a shower to get nice and warm, and then I made gyudon for dinner. I stayed in the kitchen for a little way, talking with Jacinthe, and then I retired to my room, and got in some more study for Monday’s lesson test. I decided to have an early night; Hugo came back sometime after midnight. I thoroughly enjoyed Takurazuka, and would jump at the chance to go again; there is another theatre in Tokyo! Looking back on it now, it was kind of funny that I was one of only two guys in the class that went; I think that says something. Indeed, the majority of the audiences are women, getting there fix of ideal men played by women. I was there for a completely different reason, and came out with a great respect for the actors and their professionalism. It really was an experience like no other, and I’ll remember it for a long time to come.

Day 160 - 6th of February

11:18pm　セミナーハウス
天気：雪
Today was absolutely wonderful. Not only did I get to see Beauty and the Beast, the Broadway musical, but I also got to wander around Kyoto in the snow… I got up at about 9, and readied myself for the musical; I decided to dress nice, but practical. Katie on the other hand, decided to get dressed up in her kimono, and when she came down at 10:30, she went straight to Okaasan to make sure she had everything okay. 15 minutes later, and we were ready to go. Katie told me Okaasan re-did the whole thing, every though she’d done it fine to begin with; still, a good learning experience. So yeah, I don’t know who was colder walking to Makino. Probably me, just because I’m not used to it; it was freezing. When we got to Kuzuha, it was snowing finely. Unfortunately, the ground was too warm still, so it melted as soon as it landed. We bought a snack at Tambabashi, and then continued to Kyoto station, getting there with ample time.

It was snowing heavier in Kyoto; it entered liberally into the open station. We made our way straight to the theatre, and after a few photos, and a look in the souvenir shop, from which I bought an Astro Boy pin, and Kimba the White Lion Badge, we made our way to our seats. We were a little off centre, but I couldn’t complain about the leg room; we were in the aisle. Since we had about 20 minutes before it started, we went out (separately) to have a look at the merchandise. Katie came back with a very shiny program, and I settled for another pin; so cool. And then… it started. What can I say; it was absolutely spectacular. The singing, the sets, the costumes… everything was so well done. The fact that it was all in Japanese didn’t complicate things at all. I know the story well enough, and I could understand much of what they were saying anyway. When they were singing it was a bit harder admittedly, but it did have an oddly restful effect; I didn’t have to focus on the words, just feel it I guess.

My first time seeing a professional stage show, and I was absolutely blown away. There were many new songs that didn’t feature in the movie, which made sense since it is a Broadway musical. I loved watching the set changes; they were seamless. And some of the effects; wow!!! Right at the beginning, when the old hag transforms into the beautiful witch after the Prince turns her away; that was incredible. She literally flew up into the air and this huge dress came cascading down from her as she cast the spell on the Prince; it looked like a firework was coming out of her wand. And the transformation scene at the end was perfect; just like the movie. Somehow (I’m guessin some sort of harness), he was drawn up in the air and spun around and somehow went from the Beast back to the Prince. Far out I don’t know how they made it look so good. So yeah, I thoroughly enjoyed myself, and came out feeling awestruck.

It was still snowing quite steadily, and I decided that I’d do some exploring around Kyoto. Katie opted out, which was completely understandable considering her attire. So I set off, making my way to the subway before coming to the conclusion that the bus would be better; I wanted to go to Kiyomizu. So, I went up to ground level again, and was soon on a bus. Getting off at the bus stop, I noticed there was something temple-looking nearby, called 大谷本廟 (Ootani Honbyou). Since the complex was closing shortly, I had a quick browse, and made my way out another gate, and soon found myself in a huge cemetery. It was eerily beautiful, walking among the silent gravestones with the snow falling softly and the sun setting over Kyoto tower, soon to be blocked by the impending grey clouds. Out of the cemetery, I found myself at the bottom of Kiyomizu-dera. I decided against going into the main section, since it was getting dark, and my batteries were dying; they did die while I was there.

Instead, I just walked around the skirting buildings, and then made my way back down the hill, going past all the shops. The snow was falling heavier, and I eventually took refuge in a Studio Ghibli shop I spied; didn’t buy anything though. I continued on, and found myself in familiar territory once more; I had stumbled upon Kodaiji. I willed my camera to work, and got a few more photos of the heavy snowfall. Unfortunately, the ground was still too warm; it did settle on the plants and rooves though. I continued down the hill, and bought some batteries at Lawsons, before taking a final few pictures of Yasaka shrine. I called it a day when it got too dark, and made my way back to Gion station. I caught the limited express to Makino, and after a quick stop at Life (for more groceries), I made my way home in the freezing cold; it was snowing a little. You can imagine how happy I was when I got back inside; and warm. I made dinner soon after returning (yakisoba), and caught up with Katie. We watched an interesting quiz show on tv for a while; it had us quite absorbed actually.

Finally I went back downstairs, to find Rachael and Sarah in the lounge watching Blazing Saddles. It was quite funny, and completely daft; it’s directed by Mel Brooks so what more do I need to say. That finished at around 10, by which point I was very tired. I had a shower then got settled in bed. Tomorrow’s going to be very interesting I think. We’re going to a fertility festival in Nara. And when I say we, I don’t know who exactly yet. I’ve convinced Hugo to come, and he’s asked his speaking partner to join also. I also persuaded Rachael to come. She didn’t want to at first because of the nature of the event; being British means she’s a prude, or so she tells me. But she finally came around, and supplied me with a very useful piece of paper, with all the travel information on it; her professor had supplied this to the class. So, armed with this information, we should be able to get there no problem. The festival starts at 2, so we’re going to leave at around 11. I hope it’s snowing…